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Here are the Archived entries for 4 2009


Book Review: The Taste of Sweet: Our Complicated Love Affair with Our Favorite Treats by Joanne Chen
sweet.jpgThe Taste of Sweet: Our Complicated Love Affair with Our Favorite Treats by Joanne Chen, examines how desserts have been manipulated into being something negative instead of positive.  Chen see sweets as a way to bring people together, rather than drive them away from something seen as fattening and unhealthy. In the introduction, she immediately gets on the defense on what exactly she plans to discuss throughout the book, “When people heard that I was working on a book about sweets, they assumed one of two things: I was either producing an expose on junk food or creating one of those beautifully photographed dessert books. Neither could be farther from the truth, since I am a firm believer in consuming king-sized chocolate bars and hardly a gourmet.” The complicated part comes in throughout the book, in her thorough description of sugar as a scientific aspect of a type of food rather than an ingredient. It’s not difficult to get lost in translation here, but in this case, the ends justify the means.

 

Book Review: "Sustainable Sushi: A Guide to Saving the Oceans One Bite at a Time" by Casson Trenor
sushi.jpgCasson Trenor’s new book “Sustainable Sushi: A Guide to Saving the Oceans One Bite at a Time” is not the sushi bar buzz kill the title suggests. Trenor starts out with a welcome disclaimer: “Let me ease your fears: I am not going to tell you to stop eating fish.” You can have your maki and eat it too, but some choices are certainly better than others. Trenor’s book is one in a long line of “sustainable” literature, and his belief that less is more, coupled with vegetarian options towards the end of the book, hearkens back to Bittman’s stance on meat in “Food Matters.” Though his subject is niche at best, with very few Americans capable of ordering sushi regularly, it is nonetheless an important topic to tackle. Increased demand for seafood equals increased risk of overfishing, or of harvesting the most from our oceans regardless of the ecological price tag.
Book Review: "500 Places for Food & Wine Lovers"
500.jpgFrommer’s 500 places for Food & Wine Lovers is certainly a book worth skimming, especially if you’re an avid traveler. Divided by categories ranging from food museums to seafood shacks, this is an all encompassing foodie guide, from Baltimore to Bangkok. It’s not necessary to read cover to cover, instead, search by specific categories or country.

 

The true weakness of the book, besides some factual errors (Nobu 57 is not instead the Time Warner Building and does not sit next to Per Se, that would be Masa…and why is there a picture of Guy Fieri on page 195?), is that it could really use some color pictures to make the food photography that much more exciting—the confections from Hotel-Restaurant Troisgros in the Loire Valley look incredible, but only if we could see them in something other than grayscale.

 

Even if a lot of the entries aren’t exactly off-the-beaten-path (New York’s Chinatown?), they are still food destinations worth visiting. Moreover, the book allows for a list of all those “oh yeah, I heard of that place” to be found in one comprehensive volume. No matter what category or region you choose to browse, you will surely be salivating from something, whether it is the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo or a list of the best ribs in Memphis.

 

-Carey Polis

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Beyond The Margarita
margarita-on-the-rocks.gifEvery year on Cinco de Mayo, we plan to go out on the town and celebrate a holiday that most of us see as yet another excuse to drink heavily during the day.  We abandon our usual drinking habits of American beers and European liquors, and stick with alcohol strictly south of the border, in the form of margaritas, tequila shots and the ever refreshing sangria.  This year, instead of sticking with what you’re used to, here are some different drink recipes to celebrate this festive day. Photo: epicurean.com
Sandwiches That Are Better Than The Bahn Mi
bahn_mi.jpgFor the past couple of months, the buzz around the New York City food scene has been surrounded around two words: Bahn mi.  A Vietnamese sandwich with pork, pickled vegetables, cucumbers and chili peppers inside a crunchy baguette, has gained a lot of hype, especially with the rapid opening of three branches of Baoguette.  Over 15 bahn mi restaurants have opened since the start of the year in Manhattan and Brooklyn, and at first it was like a strange new adventure that everybody was in love with.  Unfortunately for this pork-filled creation, the honey moon is over.  Chefs and critics are already starting to fall off the wagon, saying that it’s not all it’s cracked up to be, and I don’t blame them.  It’s a good sandwich, but as one would say about gas station sushi, I’ve had better. And not only from restaurants, but also in the comfort of my own kitchen.  Here are some sandwiches that are totally better than the bahn mi:

 

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