Review Roundup: Aquavit, Mari Vanna & Lobster Rolls
This week in reviews, Sifton likes Aquavit (even without Marcus Samuelsson), there's much more than vodka at Russian spot Mari Vanna, and where to find NYC's best lobster roll.
Image via Everything Is Better With Bacon.
Sifton reviews Aquavit
and says that Marcus Jenmark (the chef that took over after marcus
Sameulsson left) cooks with a "quiet, seasonal intensity that is well
worth investigating" and calls the food "bold and honest." Two stars.
Cheshes files on The
Plaza Food Hall by Todd English; says English's trademark pizzas
"may be the Food Hall's sole draw," but the rest of the food has "as
much sould as a cruise-ship buffet." Two stars
Cuozzo says the food at Russian spot Mari
Vanna is decent, but the ambiance is great. "Mari Canna's food
isn't two-star stuff, but the place is a two-star experience." Two
Greene reviews two very different Vietnamese spots - Co
Ba ("unassuming, modest, welcoming") and Ma
Peche ("so butch there are no desserts"). She finds winning dishes
at both restaurants, but prefers the atmosphere of Co Ba.
Sutton tries 16 of New York's lobster rolls; says the top three are
Oyster Bar, Luke's
Hook Lobster Pound.
Richman writes that while Milos
is expensive, it is one of the best Greek restaurants in the world.
"The best restaurant in New York with the fewest number of critic's
stars is almost certainly Milos."
Sietsema finds a Chinese food with "borrowings from Japanese
cuisine" at A-Wah
in Chinatown. "Each visit produced fresh surprises."
for Two loves the sandwiches at This
Little Piggy Had Roast Beef. "Dripping and spongy, with cheese like
a dream, is the kind of thing you gobble down in a fever."
- In Dining
Briefs, Brooklyn's The
Castello Plan serves "delicious small plates, very good Italian
charcuterie and even better crostini" and Chinatown spot A-Wah, gets
more praise for its bo zai fan.