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Review Roundup: Aquavit, Mari Vanna & Lobster Rolls
lobster-roll-ck-226594-l.jpgThis week in reviews, Sifton likes Aquavit (even without Marcus Samuelsson), there's much more than vodka at Russian spot Mari Vanna, and where to find NYC's best lobster roll. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Sam Sifton reviews Aquavit and says that Marcus Jenmark (the chef that took over after marcus Sameulsson left) cooks with a "quiet, seasonal intensity that is well worth investigating" and calls the food "bold and honest." Two stars.
  • Jay Cheshes files on The Plaza Food Hall by Todd English; says English's trademark pizzas "may be the Food Hall's sole draw," but the rest of the food has "as much sould as a cruise-ship buffet." Two stars
  • Steve Cuozzo says the food at Russian spot Mari Vanna is decent, but the ambiance is great. "Mari Canna's food isn't two-star stuff, but the place is a two-star experience." Two stars.
  • Gael Greene reviews two very different Vietnamese spots - Co Ba ("unassuming, modest, welcoming") and Ma Peche ("so butch there are no desserts"). She finds winning dishes at both restaurants, but prefers the atmosphere of Co Ba.
  • Ryan Sutton tries 16 of New York's lobster rolls; says the top three are at Pearl Oyster Bar, Luke's and Red Hook Lobster Pound.
  • Alan Richman writes that while Milos is expensive, it is one of the best Greek restaurants in the world. "The best restaurant in New York with the fewest number of critic's stars is almost certainly Milos." 
  • Robert Sietsema finds a Chinese food with "borrowings from Japanese cuisine" at A-Wah in Chinatown. "Each visit produced fresh surprises." 
  • Tables for Two loves the sandwiches at This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef. "Dripping and spongy, with cheese like a dream, is the kind of thing you gobble down in a fever." 
  • In Dining Briefs, Brooklyn's The Castello Plan serves "delicious small plates, very good Italian charcuterie and even better crostini" and Chinatown spot A-Wah, gets more praise for its bo zai fan.
Image via Everything Is Better With Bacon.




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