Eats.com - Where have all the Brownies Gone?

Where have all the Brownies Gone?

(Additional Reporting by Elise Stern)

EATS eats: we stuff ourselves, so you don’t have to.

The classic American brownie is in mortal peril—lone cowboys trying to stand tall amongst the elaborate, fluffy confections looming around them—but EATS knew they were still out there. So dodging over-frosted cupcakes and couture cookies, we set out to find them. There were more around than we thought—there is hope after all!—so we picked a neighborhood (Union Square), wrangled up a few, and brought them to the EATS office. Few things can brighten a dull afternoon like an impromptu blind brownie tasting...

To throw a final twist in the knot, we also made some brownies: one from a Pillsbury mix and two from scratch. We compared all of them to the store-brought specimens to see if the efforts of a store can compete with the efforts of an individual—they rarely can—but don't disdain! Check out the featured recipe at the bottom of our survey: truly the only brownie recipe you'll ever need, as easy-as-123 and EATS' hands-down favorite from the entire bunch!

Brownie Requirements:

• Anything we purchased for this survey had to be called a brownie, not some variation of the term (melted chocolate chip cookie, anyone?)
• It could not have any obvious extraneous toppings, aside from the basics (we accepted: a few nuts, a chocolate chip or two, and even some frosting, but no peanut butter, Oreos, etc.).

• Round brownies were okay as long they were still labeled "brownie."

The Results:
Brownie tastes vary widely. Some EATers like more of a crumby cake-y texture, while others live for the dense dark fudge brownie (take note: the authors vie for the latter). Some of the brownies we had the highest hopes for failed us completely, while others that had weak prospects surprised us quite pleasantly.

• The Bread Alone stand located in the Union Square Greenmarket

This brownie from the Greenmarket got mixed reviews. Some thought it was dry, but most called it moist (?), and one even called it the best of the day (!). Overall it was a little too cakey, and lacked what we deem “chocolatey-ness.” It was also oddly sticky on the hands and in the mouth but we were willing to overlook that.

• Chomp 250 E. 14th St. (2nd Ave. & 3rd Ave.)

Chomp’s brownie was adorned with frosting and a walnut (though the brownie itself was actually plain). The frosting was good but in an artificial way, and the brownie itself was reminiscent of Duncan Hines (not that that’s a complaint, but we were looking for legit flavor here). It was dense and moist, yet lacked a true chocolate flavor.

• Muffin Madness located in the Union Square Greenmarket

Muffin Madness' brownie tasted a lot like a muffin, but we didn't want a muffin, we wanted a brownie, so alas, it was no good. It just didn't hold up in terms of taste, relying on too much sugar and not enough chocolate. It seemed like it was all cocoa; and though some of us enjoyed the crispy crust, most found it unpleasant.

• Tisserie 857 Broadway (17th St.)
(Venezuelan Chocolate Brownie)
Tisserie's deeply fudgy confection wowed us, and we're not alone in this sentiment. This organic Venezuelan 57% cacao monster melts on your tongue like the perfect piece of fudge. Frosting can mask a bad brownie, but the chocolate ganache on this one made it all the more otherworldly. Alas, some of us still didn't like it, but they obviously were wrong (all the editors adored it).

(Mini Brownie)
Tisserie also has a mini brownie in a teeny cupcake shape, but that didn't do a whole lot for us. It had a nice nutty flavor, but contained no nuts. It's crust was a little too crunchy for our tastes.

• Stone Arch Farm located in the Union Square Greenmarket

Stone Arch Farm's specimen was deemed far too cakey with a too-mild chocolate flavor. Reviewers commented on its fluffy airiness that left the palate wanting quite a lot more.

• Café Medina 9 E. 17th St. (5th Ave. & Broadway)

The brownie at Café Medina received some chilly reviews. Some liked the rich taste augmented by a few scattered chocolate chips, but most found it dry and somewhat salty.

• Moishe's 115 2nd Ave. (6th St. & 7th St.)

Whatever we had at Moishe's was good, whether it was a brownie or not is another question entirely. It had a strong cinnamon flavor, and with its flavor and texture, it seemed more along the lines of a cocoa-y spice cake; one EATer even described some banana flavor in there. It should be noted that the woman behind the counter sliced off the brownie's hard edges before serving it to us-always an appreciated touch.

• Le Pain Quotidien 124 7th Ave. (17th St. & 18th St.)

Le Pain's brownie was rich and round. The edges were a little burnt, but then some of our crazy EATS reviewers thought that was the best part ("spectaculous crust," one was even heard saying...spectaculous?) Anyways, all agreed it was a better than average specimen with a good texture and some intense chocolate.

On to the homemade ones:

Elise made some Pillsbury brownies, while Liz tackled a couple homemade versions, including the somewhat famous recipe from Katharine Hepburn–it's her family's recipe that she shared with the public in an interview many years ago.

All of these home-baked goodies received a better reaction than the store-bought ones, which seemed stale (aside from perhaps Tisserie's luscious ganache-coated version), even the Pillsbury seemed richer and pleasingly moist in comparison. Yes, it tasted like it came from a box, but that was no complaint. That distinctive made-from-a-mix flavor was a hallmark in most all our childhoods, and we could hardly badmouth it. Ah nostalgia...

However, the from-scratch brownies were by far the favorite, most impressing the fickle EATS office, showing that some fresh ingredients and a little extra love really do make a difference. The Hepburn version in particular ruled the day, packing a punch with both an intense chocolate flavor and the ideal consistency, finding a delectable medium between both fudge and cake (the other from-scratch brownie was very good, but could not trump Ms. Katharine's noble version).

The good news: the Hepburn brownie is a cinch to make, and never ceases to impress. Your friends will be amazed at your baked goods prowess.

The Katharine Hepburn Brownie:

Preheat oven to 325º

Butter an 8x8 baking dish

Melt 1 stick of butter with 2 ounces of unsweetened chocolate in a small saucepan

Remove from heat, mix in one cup of sugar, then 2 eggs, and a 1/2 teaspoon of pure vanilla extract.

Finish by mixing in a quarter cup of flour, pop into the oven for forty minutes or so

Let cool, then cut and enjoy!

The Final Verdict:
First off, let us reiterate that few people agree when it comes to brownies; some folks are fudge fans while others prefer a cake-y consistency. Though the true connoisseurs of the office fell in love with Tisserie's divine Venezuelan brownie (a true fudge example), some of the less gastronomically inclined among us instead preferred Le Pain Quotidien's cake-ier, less messy version. So it seems there are good brownies about in our fair city after all, but perhaps the best come from our very own kitchens.